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Rio de Janeiro

 

Samba, carnival, and beaches, words to summarize life in Rio.  The people go about their day like they are moving to the beat of the drum and they incorporate their beach culture along the way.  Rio is a large metropolitan city built along the beautiful bay and stretches out along the Pacific Ocean with a wonderful promenade that accomodates biking too.  Drinking from fresh coconuts along white sandy beaches is the most common way for everyone to quench their thirst.   You cannot find shops anywhere in the world like in Rio.  The style is totally fun and relaxed so be prepared to stock up.  Here is a link to English speaking group of people who really know their way around.

 

www.riocaminhadas.com/inc

 

There are several thriving neighborhoods to visit in Rio all with unique flavors:  Flamengo, Lapa, Botafogo, Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon, Jardin Botanico, Gavea, Barra de Tijuca, Recreio, and Niteroi.  There are also many little towns nearby that are enjoyable places for tourists to visit.  If you prefer the mountains, you can head to the towns of Petropolis, Teresopolis, Iguacu or Novo Friburgo.  If you prefer a quiet beach setting, the beaches in Buzios to the north or Angra to the south are the places to be.

 

I am not going to go into detail about the crime except to say that it is very organized, but unless you are living there for awhile you won't get to know the delinquents hovering on each corner.  Just dress simply and avoid wearing jewelry and you will fit in.

 

Here is a little plan I prepared recently for a friend visiting Rio for eight days:

 

You can stay very busy around Rio in eight days.

 

Day 1:  Buzios to the north is a little town with shops and a beach. The water is shallower and clearer than near the city. The neat thing there is that you can eat fish grilled on the beach. We stayed at the International Hotel around the penninsula with a much smaller beach you can reach by stairs. I've hear the Villa d'Este is a good place to stay too and closer to the town and main beach.  You could take an overnight trip or stay longer.

 

Day 2: Angra to the south is easier to drive to than Buzios. It's a mountainous area just outside the newer and farther neighborhoods of Rio with fantastic views of the water. There is a little town called Piraty with good restaurants and art shops. You can rent a schooner to visit the large island nearby for the day. It is really popular to stop at various beaches around the island on a schooner rented for the day. We stayed at a little resort called Hotel Bosche (In the Woods, and it was). They had nice rooms, the restaurant was great, and it was quiet but there wasn't much of a beach in walking distance.

 

Day 3: I've heard the beaches in Niteroi are also nicer than the city beaches. You can get there by car or bus just across the bay bridge or by ferry. The Museam of Modern Art is in Niteroi too and has some really respected work.

 

Day 4: There are a few moutain towns nearby: Nova Friburgo, Teresopolis, Petropolis, and Iguacu. The El Canton is a little Swiss village/farm outside of Teresopolis. It's driving distance to Nova Friburgo where you can find a big outdoor market, a great place to stock up on embroided bikinis very reasonably priced. Petropolis is also driving distance from there and you can visit the old Royal family estates. There are plenty of taxis that will take you there from Rio for $50 or it is pretty safe to rent a car and drive yourself.

 

Day 5: You will see a good example of rainforests right in Rio. I think there is a dark candle lit restaurant right in the middle of the Vista Chinesa rainforest where you can walk through the winding forest paths just outside. The Jardim Botanico is pretty impressive too and right in the city. 

 

Day 6: There are a lot of options to exercise in Rio. You can rent a paddle boat in the lake or bike around it or speed walk in the early morning and evenings on the promenades.

 

(I don't advise going to Rio during carnival. The beaches are lined with 100s of portapotties and people from out of town are sleeping on the streets with all of their belongings in shopping carts so you really cannot enjoy it. Unless you are interested in taking samba classes from one of the Carnival schools and either participating or watching the shows stay clear.)

 

Day 7: There is lots of cool stuff to see in the downtown area of Rio. The area near the US Embassy has lots of museums, book shops and coffee shops. Banco de Brasil is the most popular museum recommened. There is a centuries old monastery and contemporary church near the acquaducts worth visiting but be careful of the crime in that area. The Botafogo area has a nice outdoor restaurant on the terrace of the food court in the Botafogo shopping center. You will see great views from there. Not to mention, the Corcovado and Sugar Loaf views. Lapas is the place to be at night for dancing.

 

Day 8: And last but not least the beaches in Rio: Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon and Barra. That's where all the fun is. If you go during Brazilian summer (Dec-Feb) you will see the most silver water ever right along the Aprador (area between Ipanema and Copacabana). But you have to be there right when the sun sets walking towards Leblon. It is really beautiful. Always stop to drink a cold coconut or have a beer at one of the kiosks. The water is really great and if you like to surf then it is even more perfect for you. A great place to have breakfast is at the Copacabana Fort.  (Say hi to my friend who is the owner.  She still owes me breakfast for two, my prize at the INC lunch last year.)  Also, walk to the main strip in Leblon and you can have a taste of the freshest most exotic fruit drinks ever at the most simple fruit bars. You will have great steak dinners in Rio. The Girl from Ipanema restaurant is very good and there will be many others to choose from like Porcao and Marius.   My all time favorite restaurant in Rio is a tiny place called Degrau in Leblon.

 

Be careful about where you stay in Rio.  The standards are very different so you have to be careful. A trusted hotel chain is usually a sure bet.  The Marriot, Sheraton, and Sofitel are my favorites.  The Marina is more modest but in a better location.  Residence Hotels are very popular but very greatly in quality even within the same building because many of the apartments have separate owners but they are all priced about the same.  I never saw a bad apartment in the Country Residence and there is a new one called the Pantheon.

 

Of course, this is only a little of what Rio has to offer based on my little experience.